Rachel Roddy presents a delightful recipe for pork ragù, perfect for pairing with either gnocchi or pasta.
Imagine this: it’s 10:30 in the morning, and the inviting aroma of sautéed onions, beans, cabbage, and slow-cooked meat wafts through the air from the cozy kitchen nestled in box 37 at Testaccio Market. At the helm is Leonardo Cioni, a tall chef hailing from San Giovanni Valdarno, a picturesque region located between Florence and Arezzo. For over three years, he has passionately managed Sicché Roba Toscana, a name that translates to "therefore Tuscan stuff." The enticing steam emanating from his kitchen serves as an excellent advertisement, drawing curious customers to the blackboard above his counter to see what delicious offerings await them.
Among the consistent stars on his menu is lampredotto, a traditional dish made from the fourth stomach of the cow, well-known for its tenderness. This unique cut resembles a damp dishcloth intermingled with a ruffled shirt. To prepare lampredotto, it is simmered for about an hour and a half in a savory broth crafted from onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes, parsley, and basil. Once tender, it’s seasoned with salt and pepper and served in a roll, often accompanied by a spoonful of vibrant salsa verde. In addition, Leo frequently prepares trays of torta di ceci, a baked pancake made from chickpea flour that resembles farinata, which can be enjoyed sandwiched in flatbread called schiaccia, filled with cured meats or cheese. While the daily menu varies, it always features a bean dish, at least one hearty legume and vegetable soup (often thickened with polenta or bread), and a long-braised stew or a rich ragù.
Recently, I was captivated by the steam rising from a pot of ragù di capocollo, so much so that we, adults with youthful spirits, returned an hour and a half later to enjoy it at the vibrant, tiled counter. The ragù was rich and succulent, adorned with a glossy, reddish oil halo, and served atop small potato gnocchi.
Capocollo, also referred to as pork neck or pork collar, is sourced from the upper shoulder area of the pig, an area known for its generous marbling of fat. This combination of well-marbled meat is what gives this ragù its juicy flavor, allowing it to beautifully complement three potent herbs: bay leaves, sage, and rosemary. One aspect that particularly impressed me about Leo’s rendition is his use of minced capocollo instead of braising a whole piece of meat and shredding it afterward—a method that is also commendable, but I find the texture of minced meat to be more appealing. If you prefer, you can blend lean cuts with back bacon, ensuring that your dish retains a satisfying level of fat.
Pork Ragù with Herbs (for Gnocchi or Pasta)
Serves 4
- 400g pork mince (ideally well-marbled with fat, such as from the neck, shoulder, or jowl)
- 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 medium onion or 3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sage leaves
- 2 sprigs of rosemary (one with leaves picked and minced, the other left whole)
- Salt to taste
- 1 small glass of dry white wine
- 400g can of crushed plum tomatoes or passed through a food mill
- 1 tablespoon tomato concentrate
- 500g potato gnocchi or fresh pappardelle
- Grated parmesan or grana padano cheese for serving
To prepare this delectable dish, start by heating a heavy-based pan or casserole over medium-low heat. Add the minced pork along with some olive oil, stirring until all traces of pink are gone. Next, incorporate the diced onion, bay leaves, sage, both minced and whole rosemary, and a pinch of salt, continuing to cook and stir until the onion becomes translucent.
Once the onion is ready, pour in the white wine, allowing it to bubble for a minute or two. Then add the canned tomatoes, tomato paste, another small pinch of salt, and a splash of warm water. Cover the pan partially with a lid and reduce the heat to let the ragù simmer gently for about two hours. Be sure to check and stir occasionally, adding more warm water if needed, to prevent the mixture from drying out. By the end of cooking, your ragù should have a dense yet succulent consistency with a glistening oily halo.
Meanwhile, cook your gnocchi or pasta in a generous amount of well-salted boiling water. Once cooked, transfer to a warm bowl and mix in a spoonful of finely grated parmesan or grana padano. Add half of the ragù and toss again. Serve in four plates or shallow bowls, topping with additional ragù and cheese as desired. Enjoy this comforting and flavorful dish!
